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For 35 years, we’ve doing the very best in Re-Power work. We sell and install all major brands of marine diesels, including Cummins, Lehman, Yanmar, Beta, Volvo, Perkins, Westerbeke, CAT, and Detroit.
Simply installing just a new engine into your boat may not be a good option. Typically attached components, and systems are in need of replacement as well. We’ll do a full engine room inspection, and detailed survey on your behalf, so you’ll know fully what you’re up against before we ever start the process. When you are quoted a price by others to “install an engine”, typically you’ll be quoted for just that… “Install The Engine”. The statement however, “The Devil Is In The Details” describes with clarity, what a legitimate Re-Power Project is all about. So, in your pursuit for a shop to do your work, please give us a call, and we’ll explain to you just what we mean by, “Re-Power”, and by the term, “Install The Engine“.
Jim has been doing metal fabrication for over 40 years. His 100% TIG welded tanks are of the highest quality, and are made of 3/16” (not 1/8”) material. We build custom exhaust, and plumbing parts, engine beds, equipment and component mounts, rails, ladders towers, and custom projects.
| Contact us for price with our installation, or for “do it yourself”
Perkins/Sabre M-90 (4-236) Long established in all applications as the ‘benchmark’ for reliability and durability from a simple, easy-to-service design. Based on a naturally aspirated, 3.86 litre, 4 cylinder, direct injection marine diesel – the engine you can trust. |
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| Read more here… http://www.perkins-sabre.com/Engines/M90/Index.cfm | |
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What Is A Heat Exchanger And Why Should I Care?
In the case of the one’s found on your boat’s engines you have sea-water (also called raw-water) flowing through the tubes which cool the coolant (anti-freeze) through the cooling journals of your engine.
And, Why Should I care? They do not last forever even with the best of maintenance. Most have zincs to reduce corrosion. Some do not. If yours has zincs it is extremely important to know your heat exchangers appetite for zincs. It is the maintenance item that will allow you to maximize the useful life of your heat exchanger. Some eat up zincs in just a month to a few, where others may last many months. So it is very important that you keep a ledger to find out just how often yours requires new zincs. Furthermore, if they do not get changed often enough they can break into pieces, and plug up the tubes in the seawater side. Once again, a few dollars in maintenance can save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars in repairs. However, if you have no idea just how long your zincs are lasting in your heat exchanger(s) install new ones, record the date you do this, and then check them every 30 or so days. Keep up this inspection schedule until you see that they are at 75% corroded away. Determine how much time has elapsed from the date you installed them. There… Now you know just when to be changing out your zincs in your heart exchanger(s). What To Look For In A Bad Heat Exchanger
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As its name implies, this type of heat exchanger consists of a shell (a large pressure vessel) with a bundle of tubes inside it. One fluid runs through the tubes, and another fluid flows over the tubes (through the shell) to transfer heat between the two fluids. The set of tubes is called a tube bundle, and may be composed by several types of tubes: plain, longitudinally finned, etc.
These two heater exchangers (above and below) are the sames ones. This one has been wire wheeled, and or sanded. This process of cleaning, though common does not allow for a thorough inspection. |
Unlike in photo #1 the same area that was wire wheeled has now been blasted in our blast cabinet. The result is striking as far as how more efficient it is to bead blast a substrate than to just wire wheel to sand it. In this photo we can clearly see crevice corrosion starting up at the top right edge of the cooler. Furthermore, the red areas are very apparent. These red areas are unhealthy so to speak, as these areas of the bronze are in an advanced state of galvanic corrosion. |
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Removing, and visually inspecting a heat exchanger is only half of the service you can expect to receive from us. All of the related components that are able to be bead blasted, receive blasting in our blast cabinet. Bead blasting provides a 100% clean substrate for visual inspection. To not bead blast these items clean is to chance that a thorough visual inspection is not possible. We bead blast in order to ascertain the level of corrosion your parts may have that can affect the soundness of the part. Attempting to just sand, or wire wheel away paints, and corrosion is not very effective at all. See the two photos.
Additionally, we take your heat exchanger tube bundle, and install it into our pressure tester. See photo. 25 psi of air is pumped into the bundle, and then the entire unit is submerged in clean water. Any signs of leaking will become obvious.
“Why are parts of my heat exchanger turning that red color?” You are seeing Galvanic Corrosion. This is the most common cause of corrosion in the marine environment. Galvanic Corrosion is the interaction of two dissimilar metals in an electrolyte (saltwater). In this situation the least noble becomes the anode and corrodes. In this case you are seeing the depletion of the zinc in your bronze heat exchanger, thus leaving only the copper alloy. This is the red color you are seeing.
This is why it is so important that you keep your zincs in good fashion in your heat exchanger, if they are equipped with them.
Photos of some of our repair jobs.